Wednesday, April 1, 2015

Bodice Bustin for the 1863 Dress

Well things are progressing nicely with my sheer dress. While I have been taking my time with it to make sure fittings are going well, I'm also making sure to correct a few areas where my last dress was rushed.

For the collar, I had just cut a bias strip and sewed it in. Yeah, it looks poorly planned and executed as a result. This time, I decided to draft out a collar using the existing pattern pieces.
Drafting a collar off the original pattern
Final collar to line the inside
Cutting it to match the neckline definitely makes things lay flatter and it covers the fabric and piping edges.

So along with the collar, I made additional changes to include hand sewing down the edges where the fabric folds over for the buttons, adding boning to the sides (per the instructions) and doing french seams on my sleeves.
Quick progress pic of the bodice pinned over my corset
In working with the lawn, I have found that it does like to fray along the raw edges. For my shoulder seams, I did overlock stitch the edges, but the material is so fine that it gets pulled and warped in the machine. To fix the problem in the sleeves, I checked my couture sewing guide and did the french seams instead.
When I attached the sleeves, I opted to bind the raw edges rather than overlock stitch them. I did the overlock stitch on the first dress but the edges rubbed badly against my skin. Using some of the leftover bias tape from the lining neckline, I cut the fabric edges down then sewed the tape over it by hand.
Bound edge (left) and raw edge (right)

Quite a bit of work just two days but it's turning out very nicely and I'm very happy with all my changes so far.

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